-
Heuer Carrera Chronographs:
- A
Brief Overview: Then, Now and the
Future:
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- A
collaboration between
- Matthias
Liebe-Kleymann
& Chuck
Maddox
- Based on
a thread from 19 June
2002,
- Last
Revised: 18 May 2003, 11:12
GMT.
- Certain
Rights Reserved.
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- Top,
In
The
Beginning,
- The
1960s,
The
1970s,
- The
1980s,
The
1990s,
- Now
and the future...
- Addendum,
Author's
Notes,
- Certain
Rights Reserved
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- Click
here to go to Part 5: The
1990's
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TAG-Heuer is at an
interesting crossroad's... The near monopoly which
Swatch Group holds on the production of watch
movements, with Swatch owning not only ETA and
Valjoux, but the recent addition of Lemania to
their juggernaut has had ripples across the entire
industry... Shortly before the turn of the
millennium the luxury goods manufacturer Louis
Vitton Moet Hennesy purchased TAG-Heuer which had
been briefly traded publicly on the stock market.
With the bulk of Lemania's production going to
Omega for use in it's Speedmaster Moonwatch line it
was often very difficult for TAG-Heuer to secure
the necessary movements to meet demand on the
Carrera Re-Editon models, although they remain in
the lineup. Other Classics line models, the Monaco
and the newly added Monza models sported ETA
movements with Dubois-Depraz chronograph modules.
The difficulty of obtaining Lemania movements,
caused LVMH to purchase the Zenith Watch company as
the Millenniums changed to secure the capability to
produce their own movements.
The latest announced model
of the Monza sports a Zenith manufactured movement
based largely on the famous "El-Primero" movement
that was a competitor in the virtual dead heat race
to produce the first automatic Chronograph
movement. It's a bit ironic that while it can be
argued that the Breitling, Hamilton-Bruen, Heuer
consortium was the first to cross the line and that
both the Zenith and Seiko camps have their
advocates as well, that it's quite possible, even
likely, that soon we'll see a Heuer Carrera
sporting a movement based on it's arch-rival, once
again.
Where this saga ends is
hard to say. TAG-Heuer is a very successful
company. In many ways, namely profitability, more
successful than it ever was prior to TAG-Heuer
years. It has a good reputation amongst first-time
buyers in the luxury Swiss watch market. In fact if
you ask many first time buyers they consider their
TAG's to be every bit the watch that Rolex is, but
not as staid in it's designs.
But in the hearts and minds
of many in the watch industry and hobby, TAG-Heuer
has strayed so far from it's roots that many people
who have been interested in watches for sometime
never even consider the Classic models. Many feel
that it would be a good strategy for TAG-Heuer to
center it's sales strategy on two product lines...
The TAG-Heuer line which would consist of the bulk
of the existing product lines: 2000, 6000, Link,
Alter Ego, Kirium, and Specialist lines, and a
revived "Heuer" line which would consist of the
existing Classics line with Heuer
dials/crowns/clasps/etc. and new "homage" models,
perhaps based around Zenith movements.
One piece of recent news
that serves as a beacon for potential hope in this
regard is that TAG-Heuer has recently secured the
services of Jack Heuer, the driving force behind
the original Carrera all those years ago. It is the
hope of many that Mr. Heuer will forge a revival of
the aspects of no-nonsense design that he
championed previously.
In many ways, the story of
the Heuer Carrera is about coming full circle. Like
the great Mexican road race that served as it's
inspiration, the Heuer Carrera has been about
inspiration, growth, decline, memory, rebirth and
growth. Coming full circle to embrace and
incorporate aspects of it's competitors and rivals.
The potential for TAG-Heuer to move to a new
tableau is there, the pieces and components are
there, the finances are good, once the current
economic uncertainty is overcome their positioning
is good, and they have the man who started it all
is back in the fold. Let's hope they move wisely
with an eye not only on the short-term but towards
the horizon as well.
Just as this article was
nearing completion, TAG-Heuer announced a new
edition of the Carrera. This model is not a
re-edition as it is unlike any previous Carrera
ever produced:
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Caliber
17 (not the Zenith - that's a
Caliber 36), MSRP is 2,150
Euros.
--
Photo provided by Jorge
Merino
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- As you can tell by
looking at the other various models we have
presented in this article these are unique
watches to the Carrera history. As pointed out
by Jorge in his post, the movement is not a
Zenith El-Primero based movement, but rather
(because of the arrangement of the sub-dials a
ETA2890-A2 with a DuBois-Depraz piggyback
Chronograph movement module. It's interesting
that TAG-Heuer is calling this movement the
Caliber 17, perhaps a tip of the hat to the
earlier c.11-15 movements that also had
Dubois-Depraz inspiration... Chuck discusses the
ETA-DD piggyback movement in his
article
on the Omega Speedmaster
Reduced which
you may read by clicking on the supplied link.
It's a shame that TAG-Heuer didn't incorporate a
Zenith based movement in this Carrera, for it
would be a world beater. The ETA/D-D movement is
significantly less desirable. But hopefully
Zenith will be able to increase production and
we may yet see some Zenith-Carreras.
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One of the more difficult
things to do with vintage Heuer Chronographs is
authentication of a watch. Since Heuer produced
watches with many variations of dials, hands, etc.
it is often difficult or nearly impossible to be
certain that certain aspects of a given watch are
correct.
However once in a while a
watch comes along that it pretty easy to spot as a
"Put-Together". For example this watch recently
appeared for sale on eBay from a UK
seller:
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A "de-construction"
of the dealer's text:
Heuer Carrera 1973 automatic Lemania
movement
(well...
The Lemania 5100 movement dates from 1973
I doubt the watch
does), this watch
has everthing, chronograph, date and day
(I
don't see day do
you?),G.M.T.hand
what else do you need? black original dial
with orange second and G.M.T. hands
(well
there is actually only one GMT hand and it
isn't orange) (main timekeeping hands are
wrong {non-original}
too),steel case and
screw back,this has same movement as
I.W.C. Porche
design
(IWC never used a Lemania 5100, but
Orfina-Porsche Design
did) it is very
rare model
(yes,
the 5100 based Carrera does seem to
be),it has
(non-original)
blue internal bezel,new glass
(also
non-original) and
was recently serviced,it comes on a Heuer
steel strap I'm unsure if its original but
it looks good on this
watch.
(Yes, I de-construct all dealer ad's in
this manner
) Also looks like this
watch has had a very rough life...
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--
Funky 1980's style Heuer Carrera
5100
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Aside from it's rough condition, there are a couple
of things wrong with this example. The main
timekeeping hands are incorrect, the under
Plexiglas crystal has been replaced with a totally
useless non-rotatable Compass/Slide Rule outer
bezel of unknown origin (could be Breitling,
Citizen or Seiko, or gosh! I don't know... Pulsar
maybe? It's very screwy). I'm uncertain about how
restorable this example is, but if my (Chuck's)
personal experience is any indication, my Heuer
Carrera 5100 has been at Pro-Time (TAG-Heuer's
national repair facility in New Jersey) since early
May and it's nearly August for a crystal change and
the addition of two links. So I would think
restoration of this example would be a rather
lengthy project. Buyer beware!
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- This article is a
collaboration between Matthias
Liebe-Kleymann
and Chuck
Maddox based on
a series of replies to a query for information
on Heuer Carreras posted on the TimeZone Omega
Forum on 19 June 2002 by Henrik E. Due to the
timing of the posting, in the wee hours of the
morning, and due to Matthias being located near
Frankfurt he replied to the query first with
textual information that compromises much of the
copy in this article. By the time Chuck (who's
located near Chicago in the USA) was aware of
the post there were merely a few minor textual
additions and a number of graphics. In the
discussion which follows we decided to pool our
resources for this article.
Much of the copy was
written by Matthias, a sizable chunk of the
graphics also were provided by him. Much of the
text did originate from Chuck's keyboard based on
his experience, information gleaned from various
websites and documents on the subject. The
remaining graphics, with the exception of the
previously credited photograph by Eric So and scans
by Jeff Stein, were provided by Chuck who also
handled the HTML work and hosts this article.
Special thanks to Jorge Merino for
his rapid response to Chuck's request for a scan of
the new Carreras just announced and for his
additional scan of two Lemania c.1873 based Carrera
Re-Edition chronographs . Chuck would also like to
thank Walter Joerg for his assistance with the
Heuer-Leonidas scan...
Special thanks are due to
Chris Wooley who also provided photos and or
insight on the topic at hand... Without which the
article would look and read significantly
different, Richard Sexton who helped with
back-checking some of the information presented in
this article and David Alstott who lent Chuck a
wide variety of materials during the winter of
2002-2003 that included the 1985 Heuer catalog
which was reproduced for the 1980's
section.
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Permission for
personal, educational or non-commercial use is
granted as long as this notice and the document
remains intact and unaltered. The authors retain
all other rights not specifically mentioned
here... For all other use please contact the
authors.
Disclaimer: Opinions are
our own and knowing us should be taken with a grain
or two of salt...
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