Hirsch/Equation of Time combo...
Written by Chuck Maddox  on 4 June, 2000, certain rights reserved.
Last Revised: 4 June, 2000, 5:01 GMT
 
I recieved the following post via e-mail a week or two ago:

From: ??????@???.com Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 23:55:47 EDT Subject: Your awesome leather band / clasp combo! To: cmaddox@xnet.com
 
Chuck:
 
You don't know me but I have been lurking in the Omega forum for several weeks and have finally followed the advise of the experts (mainly yourself) in obtaining a vintage Speedmaster which will arrive this week.
 
In looking at your photos, I am becomming more interested in the leather strap with deployment buckle as my "look" than the steel bracelet the watch is coming with.
As such, I would like to ask a favor- could you create this great combo (see photo attached) of black strap (with cool white piping) and deployment buckle for me? I would be happy to pay all costs involved including a little extra for your time.
 
Thank you for taking the time to respond to a stranger!
 
<Name omitted for privacy...>
 

Since I get e-mail's like this frequently I thought I would post my reply publically with the idea that I could submit it as a TZ Classic at a later date. Today is the date I submit it in TZ Classics! The original questions posed are formatted like this, my response is anything else! Here is my response interspersed with the original post:
 

Chuck:
 
You don't know me but I have been lurking in the Omega forum for several weeks and have finally followed the advise of the experts (mainly yourself) in obtaining a vintage Speedmaster which will arrive this week.
 
First off, congratulations on your Speedmaster! Second, thank you for your kind words (me an expert! =)). If you have been lurking for a while you'll know that I own a number of Speedmasters, although most of them are variants and not the mainline moonwatch versions. I'm interested in hearing more about which vintage Speedmaster you purchased. I also hope that you will "de-lurk" when you can because the more the merrier!
 
In looking at your photos, I am becomming more interested in the leather strap with deployment buckle as my "look" than the steel bracelet the watch is coming with.
 
Personally, I'm traditionally more of a "bracelet guy" than a "strap guy"... I went to straps on these Speedmasters because I intend to put a display back on one of them and to me the idea of having a metal bracelet where it could easily come in contact with a crystal display back wasn't a comforting one to me.
 
As such, I would like to ask a favor... Could you create this great combo (see photo attached) of black strap (with cool white piping) and deployment buckle for me? I would be happy to pay all costs involved including a little extra for your time.
 
 
First a problem... The picture of my two moonwatches with the deployant clasp was taken with my old (Kodak DC-120) camera which doesn't have a decent macro capability. As a result the strap that is on the watch does _NOT_ have white piping. It's stitching is black. You can see a much better impression of how the Hirsch Windsor Strap looks at the following links which are done with my new (Olympus D-620L) camera:
 
'63 Speedmaster (Pre-Pro) c.321
 
'67 Speedmaster Professional (Pre-Moon) c.321
 
So if you are looking for White Stitching you will need to find a different strap than I used.
 
Second thing... The reason I went with the Hirsch Windsor Straps is because I have large (8") wrists. The Hirsch Straps were the only straps I have been able to find locally that I can order in the longer lengths that easily fit my wrist. If you have less beefy wrists your strap options are much greater and easier to find.
 
Now if you still like the looks of the Hirsch Strap I do have to tell you that they take time to obtain if you need the long lengths: at least 6 to 8 weeks, and I have been waiting much longer for the last batch that I ordered locally.
 
I'm just a guy that likes watches (well I like watches, I LOVE Chrono's!). I'm not really set up for doing watch work. I would much rather point you out to links where you can find a strap that _you_ like than to have to make judgement calls for you (and potentially disappoint you)...
I guess to sum up...
 
I'd rather _empower_ you, than do it _for_ you if possible...
 
I hope you understand...
 
Here is the plan of action that I would recommend:
 
1) First find (obtain) the strap that you wish to use with your Speedmaster.
Here are some links:
--------------------
 
*** I created this chart of available long length straps available for order from Hirsch from a 1998/1999 Hirsch data sheet. It is NOT official, probably out of date and probably has mistakes... It is for casual reference only!!!
 
What I would do if the Hirsch strap is what you want, is I would call all of your local Jewelry stores to see if they carry Hirsch Straps (my local mall Rodgers & Hollands is where I get mine). Take your watch along and buy/order the strap of your choice. If you can not locate a local dealer for Hirsch Straps I would contact their US office for assistance:
 
HIRSCH Speidel Inc. (http://www.hirsch.co.at/english/company/index.htm) 70 Ship Street Providence R.I.02903 Tel. 001 / 401 / 421-8600 Fax 001 / 401 / 421-6244
If you have a Pre-Pro (straight lugs) you'll need a 19mm strap, if you have a Pro (flared lugs) you'll need a 20mm strap but DO measure or have measured the distance between the lugs so you get the proper sized strap.
 
2) When (after) you have the strap(s) you wish to put on the watch you can then proceed to ordering the Deployant buckle from Equation of Time. What you need to do there is to measure the width of the strap at the buckle. You can either do an outside measurement of the strap or an inside measurement of the buckle. The Hirsch Windsor straps have a 16mm width at this point (for point of reference).
 
When you have this measurement you can order a buckle that suits your tastes and or needs. Here is the link:
 
Equation of Time Deployant Buckles: (https://www.wsccommerce.com/eotstore/index.cfm?do=list&CategoryID=8)
 
I prefer the 16mm buckle size deployant clasp, double folding with push button release myself as the button release assures me that the buckle isn't going to pop open unless I want it too. But your tastes may differ.
 
Ordering through EOT is easy and painless. You can place an order via a secure browser and reasonably expect to have the clasp within a week. Then all you have to do is to swap out the existing buckle for the deployant. You may wish to invest in a proper tool for working with spring bars... I use this tool from the TZ Tool Shop (http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Link_Pin_Removers.html):
 
"First-Quality Spring Bar Tool -- If you can afford it, this is the spring bar tool to have. It comes with one tip that is reversible in the handle: a small fork on one end and a pin on the other. The other tip is a large fork, which is the most useful end for removing spring bars quickly on leather straps. The large folk end is just about the only tool which will remove the bars on Seiko rubber divers bands. Order an extra set of replacement tips and use the large fork in one end of the handle and the pin pusher in the other end. The small fork grabs the most stubborn of spring bars on the backside of metal bracelets and makes removal easy and reliable. The pin tip is for pushing out open-lug spring bars and press fit bracelet pins. FB-504 $18.95"
 
But the Standard Spring Bar Tool (at the top of the same page) would probably be sufficient.
 
Thank you for taking the time to respond to a stranger!
 
No problem. When you post as often as I do it comes with the territory! I hope you understand my hesitance to take you up on your request. I believe you will get even more satisfaction if you do a little bit of leg work to accomplish the same result and you'll know the "lay of the land" for future reference.
 
The other piece of advice I would offer you is that a strap will not last as long as a bracelet... Sooner or later you will have to replace it. I would recommend that when you buy any strap is that you purchase two so that when you have worn out one, you put the second one on the watch and use the first one to reorder (or to use as a sample) for the purchase of two additional straps. This way you are not ever in a lurch. I recommend the same thing for printer ink cartridges too! (buy two when you get down to 1 on hand buy two more...)...
 
Looking forward to hearing from you again!
 
Cheers!
 
-- Chuck

Since my initial post I recieved the following information from Mark Hanson which is also very helpful. I am including it so that his contriubtion isn't lost for the ages!
I have the 18mm EOT single and double deployant clasps. I prefer the double clasp as the single clasp digs into my wrist a little bit. Neither clasp has opened accidently and the single clasp is slightly easier to close than the double.
 
Some other strap choices...
 
***
This one I saved info from the forum several months ago. I later ordered one and sent it back the next day. The quality looked OK, but not for the price. The show stopper was that the cutout for the tang of the buckle was off center so the factory tang buckle was loose on one side and was compressing the leather on the other side. FYI - it is 16mm at the buckle end
 
Omega, Calf skin 20mm black strap w/SS Tang style buckle. Part #97631079021. Price is $86.50 (USD)
 
***
 
Breitling -- I picked up a great brown buffalo leather Breitling strap for my Speedmaster '57 Re-edition. It looked great but it was too long. It was $100 and I returned it to the store. Short and long straps are available for $150 by special order.
 
***
 
Girard Perregaux -- The make a great rubber strap 20mm at lugs, 18mm at buckle. It's the strap I wear almost all the time now on my '57. It's not going to damaged by sweat and still looks great after 4 months of wear. It will probably last several years. I believe the list price is $175. GP also makes a kevlar strap that is said to be very nice.
 
***
 
IWC -- I also have the brown water buffalo leather strap that ships with the UTC watch. It looks great on the '57 Speedmaster. I sealed the stitches on the wrist side of the strap with super glue to help make it last longer. It seems to be fairly water resistant and should be a long lasting strap. The stitching will be the first part to show wear. If I remember correctly, the list price of this strap is around $150.
 
Regards,
 
Mark Hanson
Jerry Tollison also replied and said:
 
"...You may want to add Don Ginsler to your list of strap people,,,,,,don@tick.ca He has good straps, good buckles and excellent prices. Jerry "
 

Acknowledgements:
 
My thanks go to Mark and Jerry for the ideas and thoughts they have added. I hope that you find this posting useful/informative/educational/entertaining!

Statement of rights retained and permissions granted...
 
Permission for personal, educational or non-commercial use is granted. The author retains all other rights not specifically mentioned here... For all other use please contact the author.
 
Cheers! 

-- Chuck Maddox (mailto:cmaddox@xnet.com)