Targo Florio: Where were they really manufacturered?

What types of oversize "Heuer" chronographs are currently being sold on the internet?

Most of the oversize chronographs being offered are are one-button chronographs, with continuous seconds at 9:00 (nine o'clock) and a 30-minute recorder at 3:00 (three o'clock). The button in the crown controls the stopwatch -- with start, stop and reset to zero. There are also some split-second chronographs being sold. These are two-button models, with a pusher at 2:00 (two o'clock) controlling the split-second function. The button in the crown controls the basic start-stop-reset functions.

Are these genuine vintage Heuers?

ABSOLUTELY NOT -- most of the pieces being offered are not vintage and they are not made by Heuer.

So where are they coming from?

These oversize chronographs are being made in two places -- Prague, in the Czech Republic, and Ostka, in Poland. They are being produced currently, using old pocket chronographs.

Which ones are coming from Poland and which ones come from the Czech Republic? How you tell them apart?

Most of the pieces sold on ebay over the last year have come from Prague. The distinctive feature of these is the coin-edge bezel, with the black stripe marker, and the screw-back, which also has a coin-edge. The ones coming from Poland do not have a rotating bezel and are snap-back models. It takes some expensive equipment and skilled workers to produce the coin-edge finishes on the Prague pieces.

Who is making these chronographs?

The ones from Prague come from a single craftsman, who we will call "Paul". The ones from Poland come from a shop with three craftsmen. We will call the owner of that operation "Charlie".

How are they producing these chronographs?

This is somewhat complicated, but here are the basic steps:

  1. the process begins with a vintage pocket chronograph with an appropriate movement (Valjoux 76 and Valjoux 5 are used for the one-button chronographs; Valjoux 76R and Valjoux 9 are used for the split second chronographs); if it is a genuine Heuer pocket chronograph, the manufacturer will not need to re-mark the movement with bogus "Hauer" marks (as described in step 3)
  2. the dial is removed and refinished, so that the numbers and markings are rotated 90 degrees (because the crown will be at 3:00 o'clock on the wrist chronograph rather than at 12:00 o'clock on the pocket chronograph); the original dial is usually used for this purpose, although a blank can also be used
  3. if the "donor" pocket chronograph was not a Heuer, the person producing the chronograph may add "Heuer" marks to the movement; note that many pocket chronographs of the period did not have any "brand" or "logo" marks on the movements, for either the brand of watch or the brand of the movement
  4. produce a high-grade stainless steel case to house the new chronograph, as described below

What does it actually cost to produce one of these?

The real issue is the price of the new case that is produced to house the chronograph. You can find the pocket chronographs in the $200 to $400 range, with the genuine Heuers selling at the top of this range. The dials can be refinished in the $50 to $100 range. Producing the new case is time-consuming and the most expensive part of the operation. The cases from Prague are in the $1200 range, so that the finished chronograph is sold in the $1700 range (including the movement). The cases from Poland are in the $500 range, so that the finished chronograph sells for around $1000. The split-second versions of the pocket chronograph (Heuer Reference 11.204 and Heuer Reference 11.404) might cost $600 or $800, so the re-cased split-second chronographs will cost a few hundred dollars more than the standard chronographs.

Most of these chronographs are being offered in the United States. How do these chronographs typically get from Prague or Ostka to the United States?

This is where it gets interesting. The chronographs from Prague are typically offered at the watch shows, held every couple of months in Munich. It is common knowledge at these shows that these chronographs are reproductions, and they are offered and sold as such, with the prices in the $1600 to $1800 range. However, many of these reproduction chronographs are being purchased by dealers in the United States. When these dealers return to the United States, they offer them as NOS pieces and create some history to accompany the watches.

What is this "history" that the United States dealers create for these chronographs?

The typical story is that these chronographs were produced by Heuer, in the 1950's, for a racing team and "put away" for many years by a keen collector. The story often includes references to the chronograph having something to do with the Targa Florio race or being produced for Juan Manuel Fangio. Those offering the watches proceed with the story that a small "cache" of these chronographs has been discovered and is being released into the market slowly. Of course this history is a complete fabrication -- the chronographs were not produced by Heuer in the 1950's; they were produced in the Czech Republic or Poland just a few months ago. And of course, they were not produced by Heuer at all. They are being released slowly because there is a limit on how many the gentlemen in Poland and the Czech Republic can produce.

Do these dealers know the real history of these chronographs?

Absolutely. They are buying them in Germany, with full knowledge that they are reproductions, and making up the history and representing them to be New Old Stock in order to realize higher prices for these chronographs. Typical selling prices are around $3000 for the one-button chronographs and over $4500 for the split-second (two-button) versions. I have presented two dealers with the "facts" and they continue with their stories about race teams, limited editions, collectors in Germany, etc. The story changes a little from time to time, as they forget some of what they have told me, but they continue offering them as NOS vintage pieces.

Where are these dealers located?

Most of the oversized chronographs seem to be offered by dealers in Southern California. They are being offered on ebay, through internet watch dealers and even in some reputable stores. As word is getting out among the dealers, that these are "fakes", ebay and the internet become the only channels of distribution.

So the Southern California connection explains the occasional stories about these chronographs being worn by movie stars and celebrities?

Correct. We know that Orlando Jones wore one during the filming of Biker BoyZ. We have also heard that Arnold Schwarznegger owned one, though he made the mistake of jumping in a swimming pool while wearing his. These are not waterproof, so it had to be returned to Europe for repairs.

 

How many of them have been sold?

I can count at least 15 [20] of the fakes that have been offered within the past eight months, and I am sure that some additional ones have been sold privately.

How do you assess the quality of these timepieces?

The Prague version is the only one that I have seen "in the metal", so I can only comment on that one. The quality of the case was absolutely superb . . . first rate by anyone's standards. The movement was pristine, and it kept time incredibly well -- within one minute per month. It had a genuine Valjoux 76 movement and was one of the best timekeepers of any Heuer that I have owned. In some respects, it is the superb quality of the construction that allows the dealers to pass them off as real. As one of the dealers wrote to me, they are "Heuer quality". I have not inspected any of those made in Poland, but they certainly look nice in the photographs.

So what do you think they are worth?

As a top-quality, hand-made chronograph, I would have no trouble recommending one of Prague pieces at the $2000 price level (even without the Heuer logo), and this would represent a fair mark-up above the price charged by the manufacturer. They are beautiful pieces and very well made. The problem occurs when the dealers decide to add some "logos" and some "history", and sell them as $3000 pieces. Some people may even be happy buying them at that price, but not collectors seeking genuine Heuer timepieces.

What tipped you off that these were fakes?

The first indication that something was rotten came when a Southern California offered me a split-second, two-button version. Of course, it came with the usual story of being from the early 1950's, the case was marked "Ed. Heuer", etc. The problem was that the movement was marked "Heuer-Leonidas", and the Heuer / Leonidas merger only occurred in 1964. Also, the movement was a Valjoux 9, which Heuer only began using in the 1960's.

What were the other clues?

Most of the evidence was outlined in our "Great Debate" table, which we published in March 2003 -- the oversized chronographs did not appear in any old Heuer catalogs, long-time Heuer watchmakers had never seen or heard of them, some of the markings on the movements were strange looking and the paint on the dials looked too fresh.

What makes you so certain now about these being "fakes"?

I have spoken with "Charlie", who operates the workshop in Poland where some of the oversize chronographs are being made. Charlie has been totally up-front about his re-casing old pocket chronographs, and when he sells re-cased pieces, he clearly describes them as such. Charlie also told me that he is "100% certain" that the coin-edge pieces are being made currently. I have also spoken with an individual who knows "Paul" (our Prague craftsman) and has seen him offering the watches at several shows in Munich over the last couple of years. He has inspected several of these reproductions and admires Paul's workmanship.

The real irony here is that the gentlemen producing these chronographs are skilled craftsmen and they are being totally up-front about what they are doing. It is only when these chronographs get into the hands of the dealers that the deception and story-telling begins.

2003.07.20 08.10.55 CM3

Targo Florio Questions and Answers...

Targo Florio: Where were they really manufacturered?

Question:

Answer:

Where are they being made?

Poland and Prague, Czech Republic.

Who is making them?

In Poland a shop with three guys; in Prague one (very highly skilled) guy.

What do they cost?

550 to 700 euro from Poland; $1200 from Prague; plus movement.

How do you tell them apart?

The coin-edge bezel / screw back case = Prague; others = Poland

How is the quality?

Prague = superb; Poland = unknown; never inspected in the metal. But neither is a product of Switzerland or Heuer or Heuer-Leonidas.

Where does the story of the race-team / targa florio / Juan Manuel Fangio originate?

Typically the seller...

What about the story that movie stars have owned / worn them?

TRUE: Arnold Schwarznagger owned one (and jumped in a pool with it)/Orlando Jones wore one in the movie Biker Boys (see below...
FALSE: that Juan Manuel Fangio ever wore one

Where are they being bought and sold?

The makers sell them at German watch fairs; US dealers buy them there, season (add) a bit of concocted "history", and sell them on ebay and the internet.